Art and Strife in the Heart of Karakalpakstan
plus a recipe for black radish salad
The last time I walked into the Savitsky Museum - located in the autonomous republic of Karakalpakstan in western Uzbekistan - it was May, five years ago. Nukus, the main city, is not easy to reach. If you’re coming from the Uzbek capital, Tashkent, you can fly in but travelling overland by car or train will take half a day at least. However, due to the strength of the museum’s collection, determined tourists, art fans and journalists - as well as the odd embezzler of paintings - have found ways to get there since the museum was founded in the mid-1960s.